Pulque and Cerveza. 4 spots to drink them in Mexico City.
- Fernando Dávila
- Aug 2, 2024
- 5 min read
Updated: Aug 3, 2024
If Mexico City had its two favorite drinks democratically distributed among all "chilangos", without a doubt the two most traditional and part of our culture and social life are beer and pulque. And to drink them the options are almost endless and there all kinds. Personally, when it comes to meeting up with friends I always prefer places that are not very flashy, so to find these places sometimes you need to take a deeper look at them. And what do you look for in a place to drink pulque or beer? Easy, too easy perhaps. First, an environment that while encouraging social interaction, does not neglect privacy at each table, so that it is the ideal setting to catch up with your companion. Second, cold refrigerators full of beer bottles. Third, good background music to discover new gems or listen to the classics that fill us with memories. Fourth, good service; a friendly waiter or waitress makes a substantial difference. And fifth, good prices; Let's be honest, when we go to these places the conversation is the center of everything and the beer is the ideal element to lubricate it, so the less complex the better. And if we add to all this a comfortable and clean bathroom, we have found a gem. This is how between the drunk lovers, the unrequited lovers, the street vendors who walk between the tables and the curious people who come to these places for the first time, these places become the showcase to get you out of the city rhythm for a while.
Below I share a list with four of my favorite places to sit down and enjoy a good pulque or a good beer at any time of the day. Enjoy!
Pulques Tio Neto
A gem for enjoyment, bohemianism, cured pulque and ice-cold beer. They have everything that the good places on this list should have, with the great advantage that the attention and service are offered by Tio Neto himself. For regulars it is not strange to see them arrive and greet the staff with a hug included. Here the bar of cured pulques welcomes you from the moment you take the first step inside, there are a variety of flavors that rotate day by day. You can order by glass (350 ml), by the liter, or if you are new to cured pulque, you can order the small disposable test cups to make the best decision ($5 MXN each tasting). If you prefer beer, I recommend ordering by caguama (bottle with 1.2beer liters), ask for a frosted glass and that's it, give yourself over to relaxation and enjoy the moment. There is a variety of snacks, chips, peanuts, pork rinds, etc. But if you come hungry, the enchiladas verdes or tacos dorados are guaranteed to be tasty, well served and well seasoned.
And a detail that may seem minor, but is very important: they have a jukebox, 3 songs for $10 pesos. A real gem.
Juan A. Mateos 445, Artes Gráficas, Venustiano Carranza, 15830 Ciudad de México, CDMX

2. El Tlachiquero
Located on Av. Cuahutemoc, next to the Pushkin Garden in Colonia Roma, you will find this small bar that actually shows little from the outside, as the real magic happens inside its deep hallway where a narrow bar runs along the walls of this place. Positioned along the entire length and depth of the bar, the regulars of this space refill their beers and their pots with mezcal and grapefruit soda while they share a good chat and listen to the music that the DJ on duty shares. It is a small place not recommended for claustrophobics, because between the people and the noise, it could be intimidating. Here the cold beer, the cured pulques and the pots of mezcal are the protagonists. If two people go, each order their beer and share a pot so they can try it. If you like it (which is most likely), the next time you order one each. The staff is friendly and helpful, although if there are a lot of people it is advisable to order in advance to allow time for the staff to release previous orders. A visit you cannot miss if you are passing through Mexico City.
Av. Cuauhtémoc esq, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX

3. Fonda La Buena Vida
There are fewer and fewer places in Colonia Roma where caguamas (bottle with 1.2beer liters) are part of the menu. Fortunately, there is this bar/restaurant where they not only have caguamas, but they have several brands. The classic here, the ice-cold Cartablanca caguama. It is the ideal place to sit comfortably and have a good chat with friends. Something worth highlighting is the kindness of the staff, who, being a small place with not too many tables, serve you quickly and kindly. The food menu is extensive and of quality, so if you come hungry this is a good place to eat. The decoration is perhaps something that makes me like this place so much, because it makes you feel relaxed in a place without pretensions. If you are in Colonia Roma and are confused about what to do or where to eat, stop by Fonda La Buena Vida first to have a drink, it will serve as relaxation and inspiration for what is to come.
Merida 96, Roma Nte., Cuauhtémoc, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX

4. Restaurante Bar VillaHermosa
Located in the old Obrera neighborhood, near the center of Mexico City, this colorful bar is the perfect place to sit on the metal chairs on the sidewalk and enjoy an ice-cold beer. Beware, right in front is the seafood restaurant "Vistahermosa" (which on its facade is advertised as a Brewery), and although both are owned by the same people, the Bar Villahermosa has a more brewery atmosphere, more privacy and cleanliness. The plastic curtains that fall from the awning on the facade make sitting on the chairs arranged on the sidewalk very comfortable and ideal for smokers. Here the food and drink menu is extensive; when you order your first drink, the waiter will bring a tray with some food to your table. It is a courtesy of the house, which although it is not much, is a detail that is seen in few places. If you treat the wait staff well, the snacks will keep coming as long as you keep drinking. I play it safe, so my beer always refreshes the moment when I'm here. The interior has a decoration that could at least be described as surreal, colorful murals cover the walls and the access to the bathroom is probably the most iconic (and slightly scary) part of this place, as the paintings of human figures and mannequins guide the lost in the right direction. An unpretentious place where you can spend hours and hours between good beer and a good atmosphere.
Manuel J othon 135, Obrera, Cuauhtémoc, 06800 Ciudad de México, CDMX

Autor: Fernando Dávila
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